Today, Puglia is one of Italy’s most dynamic wine regions—but its story hasn’t always been told… on a bottle label. Over the centuries, wine in this region has gone through many transformations: from daily drink to export commodity, from blending wine to celebrated local excellence. A journey marked by resilience, technical evolution, and rediscovery of identity.
The Origins: Greeks, Messapii, and Romans
The first vines arrived in Puglia from afar. It was likely the Mycenaeans and later the Greek colonists who introduced vine cultivation along the Adriatic coast. The Messapii, an ancient Salento population, were already practicing a widespread though rudimentary form of viticulture by the 7th–6th centuries BCE.
Under Roman rule, Apulian wine gained strategic importance. Amphorae produced in the port of Egnatia were traded across the Mediterranean, and authors like Pliny and Columella listed wines from Apulia among those worth noting. The favorable climate and varied soils made the region a major agricultural hub.
The Middle Ages and Foreign Rule: Rustic Wine for Local Use
Viticulture did not disappear in the Middle Ages, but it did change. Monasteries preserved agricultural knowledge, masserie (fortified farmsteads) began producing wine, yet it remained primarily for local consumption.
The Norman, Swabian, Aragonese, and Bourbon dominations brought little innovation to the sector. Still, wine remained a part of rural life—simple, rustic, often homemade, but always present.
From the 1800s to the 1900s: The Blending Wine Era
Puglia truly entered the wine market in the 19th century. When phylloxera devastated vineyards in Northern Italy and France, producers turned to the South in search of strong, deeply colored wine for blending.
The region became a massive reservoir of alcohol and structure, used to strengthen weaker northern wines. Primitivo, Negroamaro, and Uva di Troia were planted everywhere. Wine traveled in bulk, often unlabelled, unrecognized.
This production model lasted until the 1970s, but eventually began to show its limits.
The Turning Point: Identity, Quality, and Terroir
In the 1980s and '90s, things began to shift. Some producers started bottling monovarietal wines, focusing on quality and proudly labeling them with their region of origin. Primitivo di Manduria became a benchmark. Negroamaro evolved from rustic to refined and complex.
At the same time, DOC designations grew, modern wineries emerged, and experimental techniques were introduced—all while preserving the character of the wine. Puglia started to shed its outdated image as a producer of cheap bulk wine, embracing the value of native grapes and terroir.
The Wine Scene in Puglia Today
Today, Puglia is a mature wine region, producing large volumes with a growing focus on quality. Apulian wines are found in restaurants, wine shops, and international markets.
DOC designations are accompanied by the growth of IGP wines and sustainable, organic, and artisanal projects. Historic wineries and new ventures coexist—and often collaborate. The connection with masserie, wine tourism, and local cuisine enhances the perception of wine as a true expression of Puglia.
The history of Apulian wine is one of slow progress, contradictions, and rebirth. It’s not a straight narrative, but a rich layering of experiences, influences, and turning points—and we’re proud to be a part of it.